Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
